Espadín

About the Producer: Mtro. Pedro Garcia Sernas

Many mezcal communities in Oaxaca suggest that Santiago Matatlán has lost its artisan quality because it is the largest mezcal producing region in the country and the source for several major brands. However, we estimate that 85% of producers there still employ artisanal production methods.

And it is in Matatlán where the greatest sophistication surrounds mezcal, in blessing ceremonies for a better harvest, for the best cook of maguey, to heal from deep-seated fears, or to bless the union of newly-weds. It is in Matatlán where these customs are still preserved in their original Zapotec language.

Mtro. Pedro García has developed tremendous knowledge of the many customs and protocols. Such wisdom is only shared orally and in practice within the community. For example, in the ancient custom of the Zapotec culture, the ceremony of the blessing of the drinks is the most solemn feature of a wedding or patronal feast. A connoisseur will tell you that the toast is withheld at first, while tepache is served and offered as a sacrifice first, followed by pulque, and finally mezcal. Later, tobacco and pennyroyal are distributed, to drive away evil spirits and season the celebration.

Why in that order? One theory suggests that in pre-Columbian times the consumption of fermented beverages was common in ceremonies, and distillates came later. No one speaks of tepache or pulque, or even hot chocolate as ceremonial drinks from Oaxaca. It is commonly heard that mezcal is the celebratory drink with little or no reference to other related beverages derived from agave, corn, and cocoa.

There are multiple customs like this in the community of Santiago Matatlán every day. Pedro García, has provided nearly all of the services in the community; starting from a young age as a church official, an undertaker, coming up through the municipal council, to the great steward of the town. In the community, one knows that as one becomes old, he will have earned the respect of young people and of the community in general, something that doesn't necessarily happen in the city.

Mtro. Pedro also migrated to the US and returned after six years to his native Matatlán, to continue with his heritage of distilling agave spirits. Today, he returns to the US by way of the new Espadín expression from Agua del Sol.